Monday, April 30, 2012
HomeBot update
After getting a knife from Lowe's, I was able to cut the plastic for the HomeBot. However, I didn't stop there. I got a hairdryer and then powered it up on full heat, and this enabled me to bend the plastic to any shape. After I bent the plastic pieces with pliers, I used cold water so they wouldn't bend back to it's original shape. The photo below shows the two pieces that I'm talking about. These are going to house the motors for the brush roll. Thanks for reading and the video above shows the progress being made!
FTDI Vinculum II USB OTG
It took longer to download and install the software than it did to get a working example with the FTDI Vinculum II chip this evening! The IDE looks great, the C-style language looks quite nice to work with, and the inline debugging is awesome. Putting breakpoints in code and stepping through, one line at a time is a brilliant way to debug code.
Although it doesn't really make much sense at the minute, as we're not too familiar with the language itself, the actual programming environment looks very encouraging.
We've been told that the FTDI Vinculum II chip has microcontroller facilities, as well as a hardware-based USB stack (so the device itself takes care of the tricky USB stuff, rather than us having to write our own firmware for USB) and this makes it easier to work with than the PIC 24F counterpart.
Like most things, it'll probably come down to a matter of personal preference. But so far, the FTDI VNC-II looks quite promising. Let's see how we get on....
Although it doesn't really make much sense at the minute, as we're not too familiar with the language itself, the actual programming environment looks very encouraging.
We've been told that the FTDI Vinculum II chip has microcontroller facilities, as well as a hardware-based USB stack (so the device itself takes care of the tricky USB stuff, rather than us having to write our own firmware for USB) and this makes it easier to work with than the PIC 24F counterpart.
Like most things, it'll probably come down to a matter of personal preference. But so far, the FTDI VNC-II looks quite promising. Let's see how we get on....
USB OTG FTDI (any other acronyms?)
A good while back, we made some miniature instruments for playing samples on a PC. They worked quite well and we got a bit of interest and sold a few kits online. But how technology marches on!
No sooner had we got them working with a computer, when users started asking when could they plug them into the mobile phones and Android tablets!
And following on from a discussion with Robot Steve the other night, we're thinking that making mobile-friendly versions of our miniature instruments would be a pretty cool intro to USB OTG.
No sooner had our PIC 24F USB development board arrived, than Jason from Stuff and Nonsense suggested a hardware-based USB stack from FTDI. So we got ourselves a debugger/programmer (https://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1825836) and a development module (https://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1825829) off the Farnell website.
That's right - next day, 8am, sure enough there was a thump-thump-thump on the front door and a beaming postie with a parcel covered in Farnell/element14 livery. I guess we really need to do something about fixing that doorbell.
No sooner had we got them working with a computer, when users started asking when could they plug them into the mobile phones and Android tablets!
And following on from a discussion with Robot Steve the other night, we're thinking that making mobile-friendly versions of our miniature instruments would be a pretty cool intro to USB OTG.
No sooner had our PIC 24F USB development board arrived, than Jason from Stuff and Nonsense suggested a hardware-based USB stack from FTDI. So we got ourselves a debugger/programmer (https://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1825836) and a development module (https://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1825829) off the Farnell website.
That's right - next day, 8am, sure enough there was a thump-thump-thump on the front door and a beaming postie with a parcel covered in Farnell/element14 livery. I guess we really need to do something about fixing that doorbell.
Friday, April 27, 2012
Free Design Software For Your Projects
This past week I have been asked by a number of people how do I create the projects that I have posted on my blog and build in the workshop. The first thing that I do with any project is set down at my computer and design all the components of a particular project in my engineering design software named Pro Engineering or ProE for short. This software is VERY expensive and way out of the reach of Joe Average's budget and so does no good for anyone that wants to eat meals on a regular basis. This software I used and was trained on at John Deere where I worked as a designer for over 20 years of my 33 year career. I was fortunate enough to be able to get a student version of this software which fits my needs very well but someday I will have to replace with something cheaper when it no longer will run on my computer. This is all well and good for me but does nothing for the rest of my readers that have not had this kind of formal training or luck in getting this software in the first place to build the projects that they dream of making.
Fear not. I have some answers for all of you that I hope will get you off of the couch and into your workshop building your dream project. In a lot of my projects I have also used three other pieces of software that are free to download online which will get you started. The first program is called Blender 3D. This is a great free software that you can use to concept your project to see what it will look like before you even start making parts. Here's the link to their site.
I have been using Blender 3D now for around 15 years and have taught an introductory class at the QC Co-Lab maker space in Davenport Iowa. As with any software it will take some time to learn how to use it to get you up to speed. This really is not a big problem if you put the time into learning it. There are a number of ways to accomplish this. First big thing is all the tutorials that are online right now for Blender 3D. There are a number of forums also that will help beginners with from day one to get you started. One book that I have picked up for my Blender library that I thought was a good tool is named believe it or not... Blender For Dummies! Yes this book is for real. I have it on my Ipad and it's just what a beginner needs to get started. Blender also does animation, and game creation if you want to get into that also. You can see some of the computer models that I have created by clicking the link at the top of this page.
The second piece of software that is another good tool for creating your designs is named Google Sketchup.
Everything from furniture to automobiles have been modeled using this software. One of the good things about this software over Blender 3D is that the learning curve to create anything is much quicker and easier. It does not have the polish and look of a finished Blender image but for the purpose of designing a project it does very well.
Click the YouTube button to view this video larger.
The last piece of software that I am happy to show you which can do almost everything ProE software can do and still is free to download is called Creo Elements/Direct Modeling Express. This software was created by PTC (the same company that developed ProE). You can download it at this link.
http://www.ptc.com/products/creo-elements-direct/modeling-express/
The video below is one of many online that will get you started with this real CAD software that can help you with your projects. I like the interface much more than ProE's as it is quite a bit more user friendly to start out with. With my discussions over the years about using and learning ProE my best description of the learning curve for this software is this. It took me two weeks of training to just learn what buttons were what in the software, six more months of on the job training with a tutor that had the patience of a saint to put up with all my questions about the software that I had and then another twenty years to know what I was doing with it in the first place. (After the first six month you only know enough to be dangerous.) A VERY steep learning curve to say the least.
Creo on the other hand looks to be much more user friendly than ProE, this and the fact that it's free is at least worth looking at. The tutorials that I have found online will go a long way at getting anyone up to speed using this software for your project designs. The software will create working drawings of the parts that you'll want to make in your shop so that you'll not have to have your computer next to your drill press. Check out the video to see what it's all about then do more searching online for further tutorials on what you can make with this great software.
Click the YouTube button to view this video larger.
I hope this helps anyone out there trying to design and build anything in their workshop. I know I would be lost without my CAD software to guide and inspire my creative en-devours. Makes life a whole lot easier while dreaming up my next big masterpiece.
Awesome Farnell
Just a quick post to remind myself as much as anyone else why Farnell are still number one for me...
After chatting with Robot Steve from BuildBrighton, we were talking about creating peripheral devices for mobile phones. We've already made a few USB devices for PCs (USB/HID slave devices) but this was a whole new challenge.
Android have embraced this idea, but in a back-to-front way.
To enable developers to communicate with the widest range of devices already on the market, they've suggested creating a USB device as a host (not a slave as would be the normal way of going about things) and then having the phone act as a slave, just as it would as if it were plugged into your PC.
Sounds straightforward enough, but we've only ever created USB slave devices, not hosts.
A quick look on the Farnell website reveals that the 24F series of PICs with USB host/slave (OTG - on the go) functionality cost as much as, and sometimes less than, the 18F series of PICs we were using for our slave devices. It looks like it's finally time to think about moving up to 16-bit micros and leaving our old 8-bit friends behind....
We ordered one of these PIC development boards at teatime yesterday:
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1605296
At 8am, a hefty thump-thump-thump on the front door (our postie isn't afraid to get you out of bed) and it arrived at Nerd Towers:
That's about fourteen hours from deciding to give this stuff a try to it turning up on the doorstep, ready to give it a whirl. Farnell have once again excelled themselves and are proving to be really hacker/maker friendly! We've always preferred Farnell over their rivals, because their website makes finding components really, really easy. They're not always the cheapest, but when the difference between components can be measured in pence, it's service like this that keeps customers loyal.
After chatting with Robot Steve from BuildBrighton, we were talking about creating peripheral devices for mobile phones. We've already made a few USB devices for PCs (USB/HID slave devices) but this was a whole new challenge.
Android have embraced this idea, but in a back-to-front way.
To enable developers to communicate with the widest range of devices already on the market, they've suggested creating a USB device as a host (not a slave as would be the normal way of going about things) and then having the phone act as a slave, just as it would as if it were plugged into your PC.
Sounds straightforward enough, but we've only ever created USB slave devices, not hosts.
A quick look on the Farnell website reveals that the 24F series of PICs with USB host/slave (OTG - on the go) functionality cost as much as, and sometimes less than, the 18F series of PICs we were using for our slave devices. It looks like it's finally time to think about moving up to 16-bit micros and leaving our old 8-bit friends behind....
We ordered one of these PIC development boards at teatime yesterday:
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1605296
At 8am, a hefty thump-thump-thump on the front door (our postie isn't afraid to get you out of bed) and it arrived at Nerd Towers:
That's about fourteen hours from deciding to give this stuff a try to it turning up on the doorstep, ready to give it a whirl. Farnell have once again excelled themselves and are proving to be really hacker/maker friendly! We've always preferred Farnell over their rivals, because their website makes finding components really, really easy. They're not always the cheapest, but when the difference between components can be measured in pence, it's service like this that keeps customers loyal.
Thursday, April 26, 2012
fpsrussia shows off new quadrotor with a mounted machine gun
Military warfare is obviously going to change after being introduced to robots. In the video above, it shows fpsrussia controlling a quadrotor with a machine gun attached to it. However, if you have an expensive amount in robotics then you can probably tell this is fake. First off, universities are still experimenting with these robots. It's also hard to believe that this is able to be stable while carrying the gun, let alone firing it. Also, I think we would have seen this on the military channel before seeing it by a YouTuber posing to be a Russian. Overall, I think the concept is awesome, but realistically this is just CGI and animation.
Warning: video contains some language so be advised
Non-RFID poker cards - full set
We've called these poker playing cards, but obviously they could be used for any card game.
One of the exciting ideas we came up with, was playing a game with an absent player - no longer does your regular poker night need to be disrupted because one or more players can't make it! Using these special playing cards, and a card-reading table, you can deal your friends in, and have them play over the 'net.
Anyway, that's way off in the future - we've yet to prove that the idea even works yet. But that'll be made much easier, now we've received this full deck of playing cards from Custom Stuff:
Can't wait to get making at BuildBrighton tonight, to see if we can actually read the cards using a few LDRs and a PIC microcontroller....
One of the exciting ideas we came up with, was playing a game with an absent player - no longer does your regular poker night need to be disrupted because one or more players can't make it! Using these special playing cards, and a card-reading table, you can deal your friends in, and have them play over the 'net.
Anyway, that's way off in the future - we've yet to prove that the idea even works yet. But that'll be made much easier, now we've received this full deck of playing cards from Custom Stuff:
Can't wait to get making at BuildBrighton tonight, to see if we can actually read the cards using a few LDRs and a PIC microcontroller....
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
President Obama gives the Sphero robotic ball a try
Today, on YouTube I found a new video uploaded by gosphero. It's simply called, "President Obama Drives Sphero the Robotic Ball." Literally, but don't take my word for it, see for yourself!
Non-RFID poker cards printed and cut
Here they are, in all their printed glory!
The only thing we may need to adjust is the spacing and size of the dots on the border(s). Only because at the minute, cutting is absolutely critical (we're going to put the cards into a fixed-size holder, and it's important that the dots on the cards line up with the holes in the reader). Slightly bigger dots, slightly further apart over smaller holes will at least allow for a bit of movement/printing/cutting error from one card to the next.
But other than that, the cards are really starting to look good. All we need to know now, is whether they work or not!
The only thing we may need to adjust is the spacing and size of the dots on the border(s). Only because at the minute, cutting is absolutely critical (we're going to put the cards into a fixed-size holder, and it's important that the dots on the cards line up with the holes in the reader). Slightly bigger dots, slightly further apart over smaller holes will at least allow for a bit of movement/printing/cutting error from one card to the next.
But other than that, the cards are really starting to look good. All we need to know now, is whether they work or not!
Non-RFID poker cards update
Just prior to printing and cutting our newly designed poker cards for our non-RFID poker table, Nick from Custom Stuff contacted us with another (better) idea.
The face cards were ready to print, but the black outlined circles got in the way, if we want to use traditional playing card faces (we weren't too fussed and were going to use our own images, but went with "standard" just to keep things simple). So Nick moved the dots off the face of the card and put them onto the border.
The end result is yet again better than our original idea!
(print preview - before printing and cutting - of our re-designed, re-design. Note how the dots are quite inconspicuous compared to earlier attempts!)
Nick suggested keeping the dots the same colour for the other suits - so instead of black and white dots on the hearts (red) diamonds (blue) and clubs (green) we use red/white, blue/white and green/white combinations. We must admit, these cards are looking like the best yet, so how to implement these changes?
Well, if we go down this route, the first thing to do will be to flash the RGB different colours, to work out what colour the border is. Once we know the colour of the border, we simply flash the RGB a complimentary colour to read the dots. Since the dots are white, we'd expect them to reflect all colours of light. But if we're flashing, say, a green LED onto a red card, the red dots on the red border would "appear" black (they would not reflect the LED light).
It's a little bit more complicated than our original idea - but not by much.
And the final result - the finished cards - look a hundred times better than our first efforts, so it'll be worth the extra effort!
The face cards were ready to print, but the black outlined circles got in the way, if we want to use traditional playing card faces (we weren't too fussed and were going to use our own images, but went with "standard" just to keep things simple). So Nick moved the dots off the face of the card and put them onto the border.
The end result is yet again better than our original idea!
(print preview - before printing and cutting - of our re-designed, re-design. Note how the dots are quite inconspicuous compared to earlier attempts!)
Nick suggested keeping the dots the same colour for the other suits - so instead of black and white dots on the hearts (red) diamonds (blue) and clubs (green) we use red/white, blue/white and green/white combinations. We must admit, these cards are looking like the best yet, so how to implement these changes?
Well, if we go down this route, the first thing to do will be to flash the RGB different colours, to work out what colour the border is. Once we know the colour of the border, we simply flash the RGB a complimentary colour to read the dots. Since the dots are white, we'd expect them to reflect all colours of light. But if we're flashing, say, a green LED onto a red card, the red dots on the red border would "appear" black (they would not reflect the LED light).
It's a little bit more complicated than our original idea - but not by much.
And the final result - the finished cards - look a hundred times better than our first efforts, so it'll be worth the extra effort!
Tuesday, April 24, 2012
SimpleBotics Domestic Robot is Currently in Progress
When people think of robots, they tend to think of machines doing there work. Well, I don't blame them. Who wouldn't want that? That's exactly why we have started to develop our first domestic robot. Currently we are using plastic for the body (a precise band saw will be cutting for us), and we plan on this robot to be simple, aesthetic , and analog. So far, we have come up with the sensors, how it'll clean, it's design, and the name. Thanks for reading and please comment below by recommending a good name for this robot. As of now it will be called HomeBot.
Playing cards with binary dot values
By placing 5 LDRs in a line, and flashing a different coloured RGB LED onto the face of a card, we're hoping to read the numerical value and the suit of the card using our PIC microcontroller.
The numerical value of the card can be displayed as a 4-bit binary representation of the number. So, for example, an Ace has the numerical value 1, which is represented by 0001. Similarly, a five would be 0101 and so on. Whether we use a black dot or a white dot as a "one" in our binary representation doesn't really matter!
(yes the binary dots don't match the value on the card, and blue is traditionally associated with diamonds, not clubs, but this was just a quick mock-up provided to us to demonstrate a basic idea!)
We're going to use the colours:
The numerical value of the card can be displayed as a 4-bit binary representation of the number. So, for example, an Ace has the numerical value 1, which is represented by 0001. Similarly, a five would be 0101 and so on. Whether we use a black dot or a white dot as a "one" in our binary representation doesn't really matter!
(yes the binary dots don't match the value on the card, and blue is traditionally associated with diamonds, not clubs, but this was just a quick mock-up provided to us to demonstrate a basic idea!)
We're going to use the colours:
- black = spades
- red = hearts
- green = clubs
- blue = diamonds
New poker card design
After spending hours last night updating and re-writing their printing routines, Nick from Custom Stuff emailed over some print previews of playing cards with coloured boxes in each corner, according to our latest ideas.
In short, some of them looked horrible.
With the correct photo, with the correct border, on the correct coloured background, sometimes it doesn't look ghastly (Queen of spades in the example photo) but mostly, the garish coloured blocks just distract from the images on the card and look awful (9 of spades).
Yes, we could make playing cards with "regular" card faces, pips and spades and diamonds and the like. But even then, each suit would have three picture cards with a jack, queen and king on them. So they'll still look terrible!
This morning, Nick showed us some left-over offcuts from a deck made overnight.
The customer had asked for a different coloured border around each of the cards, to signify which suit the card was (they were for teaching games to adults with learning difficulties). Apparently, thanks to the rise in internet poker and in particular, tiny graphics in mobile poker games, it's not uncommon for poker cards to use different colours for different suits - black = spades, red = hearts, blue = diamonds, green = clubs. This makes identifying your cards easier on a small-screen device (apparently).
My guess is that the programmers chose "primary" colours (let's not get into yellow being a primary colour and green a mixture of blue and yellow - we're dealing with lights, not pigments here!) to make each suit easily distinguishable from the others. Whatever the reasoning, this is quite fortuitous for us!
Having explained our card-reading idea, Nick suggested an alternative card layout:
The entire border of the card could be coloured to match the suit on the card (this was a quick mock-up, my guess is that clubs would probably be green, not blue). The numerical value of the card could be shown via a series of 4 black and white dots. Nick explained that these dots are much less conspicuous than large multi-coloured blocks, and we have to agree!
Of course, a 4-bit value gives us a range of values 0-15 (or 1-16 if you prefer).
Which is perfect: we can determine the suit of the card by detecting the colour of border, then read off the black/white dots to get the value. It does mean that we'll need 5 LDRs instead of four (the fifth will be under the border of the card, immediately to the outer edge of the dots) but the symmetrical layout of a playing card means we can just put all five in a line and the orientation of the card will make no difference.
We're quite excited by this new development.
The cards look great (we've yet to see a physical card, as Nick has a lot of work to do getting her programmer(s) to re-code their website for us!) and how it works should be quite simple.
By using black and white dots, our LDRs should be able to read a white dot value, irrespective of the colour being reflected off the face of the card - we can use this as a double-check; if we flash a red light and read back two white dots, we would expect the same response when we flash it blue and green.
Exciting stuff. We're already building prototype boards (using black tubes over the LDRs like we did with our invisible instrument last year) for reading the black/white dots, and we're pretty confident we'll have this working quite quickly. The only bit we haven't yet tried is the colour detection. More posts coming soon!
In short, some of them looked horrible.
With the correct photo, with the correct border, on the correct coloured background, sometimes it doesn't look ghastly (Queen of spades in the example photo) but mostly, the garish coloured blocks just distract from the images on the card and look awful (9 of spades).
Yes, we could make playing cards with "regular" card faces, pips and spades and diamonds and the like. But even then, each suit would have three picture cards with a jack, queen and king on them. So they'll still look terrible!
This morning, Nick showed us some left-over offcuts from a deck made overnight.
The customer had asked for a different coloured border around each of the cards, to signify which suit the card was (they were for teaching games to adults with learning difficulties). Apparently, thanks to the rise in internet poker and in particular, tiny graphics in mobile poker games, it's not uncommon for poker cards to use different colours for different suits - black = spades, red = hearts, blue = diamonds, green = clubs. This makes identifying your cards easier on a small-screen device (apparently).
My guess is that the programmers chose "primary" colours (let's not get into yellow being a primary colour and green a mixture of blue and yellow - we're dealing with lights, not pigments here!) to make each suit easily distinguishable from the others. Whatever the reasoning, this is quite fortuitous for us!
Having explained our card-reading idea, Nick suggested an alternative card layout:
The entire border of the card could be coloured to match the suit on the card (this was a quick mock-up, my guess is that clubs would probably be green, not blue). The numerical value of the card could be shown via a series of 4 black and white dots. Nick explained that these dots are much less conspicuous than large multi-coloured blocks, and we have to agree!
Of course, a 4-bit value gives us a range of values 0-15 (or 1-16 if you prefer).
Which is perfect: we can determine the suit of the card by detecting the colour of border, then read off the black/white dots to get the value. It does mean that we'll need 5 LDRs instead of four (the fifth will be under the border of the card, immediately to the outer edge of the dots) but the symmetrical layout of a playing card means we can just put all five in a line and the orientation of the card will make no difference.
We're quite excited by this new development.
The cards look great (we've yet to see a physical card, as Nick has a lot of work to do getting her programmer(s) to re-code their website for us!) and how it works should be quite simple.
By using black and white dots, our LDRs should be able to read a white dot value, irrespective of the colour being reflected off the face of the card - we can use this as a double-check; if we flash a red light and read back two white dots, we would expect the same response when we flash it blue and green.
Exciting stuff. We're already building prototype boards (using black tubes over the LDRs like we did with our invisible instrument last year) for reading the black/white dots, and we're pretty confident we'll have this working quite quickly. The only bit we haven't yet tried is the colour detection. More posts coming soon!
Monday, April 23, 2012
Non-RFID playing cards update
It didn't take long before we started getting emails about our last post, outlining colour combinations to identify each individual card in a deck of 52 playing cards.
The messages went something like "you've got lots of repeated patterns - that'll never work!"
And the people sending them were not wrong!
In fact, there were more than a couple of repeated patterns, including those for AS+2S, AH+3H, AC+6C. There are plenty more if you care to look for them. Instead, we've re-designed the entire card deck from scratch.
Here's our latest effort. There shouldn't be any duplicates this time. But if there are, don't hesitate to get in touch and let us know!
The messages went something like "you've got lots of repeated patterns - that'll never work!"
And the people sending them were not wrong!
In fact, there were more than a couple of repeated patterns, including those for AS+2S, AH+3H, AC+6C. There are plenty more if you care to look for them. Instead, we've re-designed the entire card deck from scratch.
Here's our latest effort. There shouldn't be any duplicates this time. But if there are, don't hesitate to get in touch and let us know!
Poker table - without RFID
Here's an idea we had quite some time ago, while proposing ideas for the HackLlan show-and-tell session in November last year. It was for a poker table which could read cards without using expensive RFID hardware.
Well, at BuildBrighton we're talking about holding our first poker night - so it'd be really cool if we could broadcast it live - complete with overlay graphics, just like they use on the telly!
The original idea for identifying cards was to use "intensities of light" and non-primary colours to determine which grid pattern was showing over a single exposure. After a bit of trial and error, we found it difficult to tell when one, two or three squares of the same colour were showing in a pattern and the card detection device failed.
That's not to say we're giving up!
Nick at Custom Stuff has arranged to create some decks of customised playing cards, entirely to our own design rather than through their online editor, so we're now thinking about a different layout. The latest idea is this:
Each card will have "index" numbers in all four corners (this is an option you can set in the custom stuff online editor) BUT we're going to put each index into a different coloured square.
We'll have an LDR under each corner of the playing card (which sits on a black plate with holes cut in the corners, so only the colour in each corner is displayed from underneath) and then flash an RGB LED through red, green and blue.
By measuring the reflected light from each corner, we should be able to work out which colour is at which corner (and thus, which card is face down on the detector)
We've come up with this pattern sequence for our playing cards. The idea is to find which corner contains the black or white square (if black, the LDR under this corner will always return zero, if white, it should always return full brightness) and then read the colour pattern off the card.
If every card has only one black or white square, then we can convert a sequence of colours into a card value and it won't matter which way around the card is placed on the detecting plate.
The beauty of this design is that we don't have to work out intensities of colour - simply set a threshold value and if that value is met, we can detect the presence of a particular colour; it turns the result into a binary operation once more.
For example, let's say we've put the six of diamonds onto our detector (for the sake of example, let's assume it's the same way around as the blocks in the diagram above).
We flash the RGB red and read the values, clockwise, from each LDR at each corner of the card (the LDRs are inside black tubes, so are only reading reflected light, not direct or ambient light from the LDR).
The first LDR (top left) reads 190 which is above our threshold value of 100.
The second LDR (top right) reads 180 which is above our threshold value.
The third LDR (bottom right) reads 30 which is below our threshold value.
The fourth LDR (bottom left) reads 54 which is below our threshold value.
We need to allow for a little bit of leeway in our threshold, in case any ambient light creeps in, or if the blue, for example, is not an exact blue with absolutely no red pigment in the ink. This is where our "intensity" approach failed last time - the inks were not perfectly exact colours and the range for error was greater than our range for detecting colour. This time, we're simply saying "is this corner red, green or blue?"
Now let's flash the RGB blue and read the values again.
The first LDR (top left) reads 43 which is below our threshold value of 100.
The second LDR (top right) reads 176 which is above our threshold value.
The third LDR (bottom right) reads 156 which is above our threshold value.
The fourth LDR (bottom left) reads 78 which is below our threshold value.
Lastly, flash the RGB green and read the values once more:
The first LDR (top left) reads 57 which is below our threshold value of 100.
The second LDR (top right) reads 185 which is above our threshold value.
The third LDR (bottom right) reads 41 which is below our threshold value.
The fourth LDR (bottom left) reads 158 which is above our threshold value.
Now collating these results, we can see that the first LDR (top left) responded only to the red light. So let's say that is red. The second LDR (top right) responded to all colours, so that must be our white square (if it was black, it would be the only one to respond to none of the RGB flashes). The third LDR (bottom right) only responded when the RGB was flashed blue and the fourth (bottom left) only responded to green light.
So we have red, white, blue, green. In our look up table, this corresponds to only one card in the deck - the six of diamonds. To look up the card in our microcontroller, we'll probably cycle the colours until we either start with black or white - so our sequence would be white, blue, green, red. This means we don't have to store all possible permutations of each colour sequence to be able to perform an accurate look-up
(we don't want to try to look up red, white, blue, green and have no matches because the microcontroller is comparing against white, blue, green red!)
Well, at BuildBrighton we're talking about holding our first poker night - so it'd be really cool if we could broadcast it live - complete with overlay graphics, just like they use on the telly!
The original idea for identifying cards was to use "intensities of light" and non-primary colours to determine which grid pattern was showing over a single exposure. After a bit of trial and error, we found it difficult to tell when one, two or three squares of the same colour were showing in a pattern and the card detection device failed.
That's not to say we're giving up!
Nick at Custom Stuff has arranged to create some decks of customised playing cards, entirely to our own design rather than through their online editor, so we're now thinking about a different layout. The latest idea is this:
Each card will have "index" numbers in all four corners (this is an option you can set in the custom stuff online editor) BUT we're going to put each index into a different coloured square.
We'll have an LDR under each corner of the playing card (which sits on a black plate with holes cut in the corners, so only the colour in each corner is displayed from underneath) and then flash an RGB LED through red, green and blue.
By measuring the reflected light from each corner, we should be able to work out which colour is at which corner (and thus, which card is face down on the detector)
We've come up with this pattern sequence for our playing cards. The idea is to find which corner contains the black or white square (if black, the LDR under this corner will always return zero, if white, it should always return full brightness) and then read the colour pattern off the card.
If every card has only one black or white square, then we can convert a sequence of colours into a card value and it won't matter which way around the card is placed on the detecting plate.
The beauty of this design is that we don't have to work out intensities of colour - simply set a threshold value and if that value is met, we can detect the presence of a particular colour; it turns the result into a binary operation once more.
For example, let's say we've put the six of diamonds onto our detector (for the sake of example, let's assume it's the same way around as the blocks in the diagram above).
We flash the RGB red and read the values, clockwise, from each LDR at each corner of the card (the LDRs are inside black tubes, so are only reading reflected light, not direct or ambient light from the LDR).
The first LDR (top left) reads 190 which is above our threshold value of 100.
The second LDR (top right) reads 180 which is above our threshold value.
The third LDR (bottom right) reads 30 which is below our threshold value.
The fourth LDR (bottom left) reads 54 which is below our threshold value.
We need to allow for a little bit of leeway in our threshold, in case any ambient light creeps in, or if the blue, for example, is not an exact blue with absolutely no red pigment in the ink. This is where our "intensity" approach failed last time - the inks were not perfectly exact colours and the range for error was greater than our range for detecting colour. This time, we're simply saying "is this corner red, green or blue?"
Now let's flash the RGB blue and read the values again.
The first LDR (top left) reads 43 which is below our threshold value of 100.
The second LDR (top right) reads 176 which is above our threshold value.
The third LDR (bottom right) reads 156 which is above our threshold value.
The fourth LDR (bottom left) reads 78 which is below our threshold value.
Lastly, flash the RGB green and read the values once more:
The first LDR (top left) reads 57 which is below our threshold value of 100.
The second LDR (top right) reads 185 which is above our threshold value.
The third LDR (bottom right) reads 41 which is below our threshold value.
The fourth LDR (bottom left) reads 158 which is above our threshold value.
Now collating these results, we can see that the first LDR (top left) responded only to the red light. So let's say that is red. The second LDR (top right) responded to all colours, so that must be our white square (if it was black, it would be the only one to respond to none of the RGB flashes). The third LDR (bottom right) only responded when the RGB was flashed blue and the fourth (bottom left) only responded to green light.
So we have red, white, blue, green. In our look up table, this corresponds to only one card in the deck - the six of diamonds. To look up the card in our microcontroller, we'll probably cycle the colours until we either start with black or white - so our sequence would be white, blue, green, red. This means we don't have to store all possible permutations of each colour sequence to be able to perform an accurate look-up
(we don't want to try to look up red, white, blue, green and have no matches because the microcontroller is comparing against white, blue, green red!)
Friday, April 20, 2012
Digital Scalectrix Controller
For the up-coming Dublin Mini MakerFaire, the guys at BuildBrighton have come up with a brilliant idea - Scalexercise. It's a Scalectrix, hooked up to exercise equipment. The harder you exercise, the faster your car goes around the track!
To get the ball rolling, Mike has already invested in a Digital Scalectrix and we're already investigating how it works, so we can make our own, custom controllers for it.
One idea is to put a hall-effect sensor on a bicycle and use this to send throttle commands to the controller. Want to go faster? Then pedal harder!
The Digital Scalectrix looks like it's using some clever method of sending data over the power rails - a bit like the way home automation (X10?) uses your home electric wiring as a carrier to send data signals to different sockets and switches. Here's a website showing the basic principles: http://www.electricimages.co.nz/SSD_Control.ashx#tab9703
Here's a photo showing Mike's scalectrix up and running at the Brighton Hackspace. It doesn't do much except send cars around the track - which is more than enough to cause us to lose most of the evening, instead of discussing and working on the new controllers, we just wasted time making cars fly off the corners!
<photo goes here>
To get the ball rolling, Mike has already invested in a Digital Scalectrix and we're already investigating how it works, so we can make our own, custom controllers for it.
One idea is to put a hall-effect sensor on a bicycle and use this to send throttle commands to the controller. Want to go faster? Then pedal harder!
The Digital Scalectrix looks like it's using some clever method of sending data over the power rails - a bit like the way home automation (X10?) uses your home electric wiring as a carrier to send data signals to different sockets and switches. Here's a website showing the basic principles: http://www.electricimages.co.nz/SSD_Control.ashx#tab9703
Here's a photo showing Mike's scalectrix up and running at the Brighton Hackspace. It doesn't do much except send cars around the track - which is more than enough to cause us to lose most of the evening, instead of discussing and working on the new controllers, we just wasted time making cars fly off the corners!
<photo goes here>
Nerd Club is back in Brighton!
(Well, Hove Actually). In fact, it's been a busy couple of months and we've not really had time to do much nerding about. What with travelling the length of the country and back a few times in March, to find somewhere to live, then again to actually make the move in early April - and again a week ago to bring down the laser cutter, cnc, tools and nerd-gear, it feels like the last two months have been spent either in or travelling between various motorway service stations along the M6/M40!
But the great news is that we're slowing getting sorted and bringing all our tools and equipment out of storage. Which means it won't be long and we'll be back to making cool stuff again.
The haXe game development has been coming along, but was really just a time filler while we were "between homes". It's not gone to waste - we're hoping to integrate this with different electronics-based ideas over the coming weeks and months and make some homebrew hacked-up mash-up projects to show off on this very site!
As ever, the projects posted here will be a mish-mash of different ideas, started, then abandoned, then picked up again weeks later. It's a clumsy way of working - but means that we're always working on exciting new stuff, rather than getting bogged down with seeing a project through to the very end!
After a brilliant re-union with the cool kids at the BuildBrighton hackspace, we're already off on (yet) another project: A Homebrew Digital Scalectrix Controller...
But the great news is that we're slowing getting sorted and bringing all our tools and equipment out of storage. Which means it won't be long and we'll be back to making cool stuff again.
The haXe game development has been coming along, but was really just a time filler while we were "between homes". It's not gone to waste - we're hoping to integrate this with different electronics-based ideas over the coming weeks and months and make some homebrew hacked-up mash-up projects to show off on this very site!
As ever, the projects posted here will be a mish-mash of different ideas, started, then abandoned, then picked up again weeks later. It's a clumsy way of working - but means that we're always working on exciting new stuff, rather than getting bogged down with seeing a project through to the very end!
After a brilliant re-union with the cool kids at the BuildBrighton hackspace, we're already off on (yet) another project: A Homebrew Digital Scalectrix Controller...
Thursday, April 19, 2012
Steadicam # 2 Progress
Another rainy day here in the Midwest so it's a good day to get something done on steadicam #2 in the workshop. I received the one inch thick plastic in the mail yesterday that I needed for the spacers designed for this project. So follow along below and you'll see the steps I took to put the new steadicam arm together.
The plastic that I used for this project is a slab of white plastic that is used for a cutting board in your kitchen. This piece is eight inches square and one inch thick. A nice piece of material to work with. I ordered this item from a company called freckleface.com online. This is one of the smaller pieces which was perfect for this project at a really cheap price too. They have this material in sizes all the way up to three by four feet. They also have a lot of other products that I will keep in mind when I work on new projects.
I always make a test cut of a new part in foam before I cut the real thing. Saves a lot of time, effort, and disappointment in making new parts. This is the lower spacer for the arm cut from the plastic slab.
All three spacer parts cut out and cleaned up after the CNC milling.
Here all of the parts for steadicam #2 are ready for assembly. The arms themselves are cut out of clear 1/4 inch thick polycarbonate plastic. This only took around ten minutes for each arm. Also in the photo are the spacers, washers, 1/4 inch threaded rod connectors, and allen head 3/4 inch long bolts.
The threaded rod connectors are slid into the holes in the spacers. These worked out very well and were a good friction fit. The connectors were used instead of just a bolt running through the assembly so that both sides of the arm matched when the allen head bolts were installed. This gives the arm a good clean finished look once everything is in place.
Here the spacers are attached to the two arms using the allen bolts on both sides of the assembly. Everything in the assembly lined up perfectly like it was designed to do. I breathed a sigh of relief.
Here are a couple of good views of what the upper and lower mounts for the upper platform and the lower weights look like. The allen head bolts really look good in the assembly. The arm at this point is ready for assembly to the video camera platform and it's related hardware. I would do this if I had the platform. As usual I am waiting for it and other components to be delivered in the mail. I suspect them any day now. Once I do receive them I will show off the completed steadicam #2 in another post.
Total time to put steadicam #2 together takes around two hours time to machine the parts on the CNC and assemble. A vast improvement over the first steadicam that took four times longer to make.
At this point of the build I am very pleased with the over all look of the new arm. In an earlier post I said that I was not sure if I would keep the clear polycarbonate arms or if I would go to aluminum. Aluminum is out simply because of the cost. Much higher cost just for the look. The polycarbonate arm look to be plenty strong with a good look at a cheaper price. I also played around with the idea of making the arms out of the same material that the spacers are made out of. This would be a possibility using 1/4 inch thick material. Something to keep in mind if I wanted another option for this project if I build another one. No matter what this project is getting high marks already on my smile meter!
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
My Favorite Robotics Blogs
With all those robotics blogs out there, it can be hard on picking which one to visit often to stay updated. So I have created a list. A list of ten robotics blogs (excluding mine, because that would be unfair), and I hope you find one that's suits your wants and needs.
1. http://www.botjunkie.com/
2. http://gizmodo.com/tag/robots
3. http://www.gorobotics.net/
5. http://robotzeitgeist.com/
6. http://robotgrrl.com/blog/
7. http://www.robots-dreams.com/
8. http://robots.net/
9. http://www.roboticstrends.com/
10. http://www.robotcafe.com/
1. http://www.botjunkie.com/
2. http://gizmodo.com/tag/robots
3. http://www.gorobotics.net/
5. http://robotzeitgeist.com/
6. http://robotgrrl.com/blog/
7. http://www.robots-dreams.com/
8. http://robots.net/
9. http://www.roboticstrends.com/
10. http://www.robotcafe.com/
Tuesday, April 17, 2012
New "Robo-Cops" in Korea will help guard prisons
We've all dreamed of it, and yes I mean robots doing our work. Well, at least some work. As a result of this, Korean robots will be guarding curtain prisons in South Korea next spring. There job will obviously be to patrol the area and be sure that no prisoners escape. However that's not all they will be doing according to BBC news. With with a range of cameras and sensors, these bots will be able to detect inmate violence an conflict. There are also five feet tall and have four wheels that help them get around with ease. This is to ensure that no one, in any way, will sneak past the "robo-cops." I don't think that's the official name, by that's what I call them. Thanks for reading be sure to check out, http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-15893772 for more info.
Another New Steadicam Design In The Works
This week spring has sprung in a big way here in the Midwest and so like everyone else at this time of year there are a lot of chores that need to be done and some are fun and not so fun. I had to mow my lawn today for the first time this season which looked more like a jungle before I started. This was not so much fun but at least I have a small yard so it's not as bad as it sounds. I also got my motorcycle out of winter storage and put my carefully charged battery in my Honda Goldwing and off to the motorcycle shop for a spring check-up, oil change and new tires. This was the fun part. At least until I see the bill for the work that needs to be done. These two chores along with other spring activities have slowed my progress a bit in the workshop.
The first steadicam design.
So to the point here I have been working on a new steadicam design / build. If you have been following my blog your next question I am sure is "Why build another steadicam?" I have had a lot of email about my last build of the fiberglass steadicam from a little while back. The steadicam turned out better than I had hoped and had a great response about the design. The reason I am building another steadicam is because I sold the first steadicam to a filmmaker in Barcelona Spain for a good price and so this design was born from what I learned the first time around. The drawback with the first design was that it took roughly eight hours to build the arm out of wood and fiberglass. Glass and let it dry, glass some more and let it dry. Sand and prime, and sand and prime. Then on to paint over and over. So you can see what it took to build. My new design is a lot more streamlined with less work to build. Here are some Blender 3D graphics of the new design.
These first two images of of the new design uses polished aluminum. A great look to be sure but with drawbacks that I will explain in a minute. The arm is identical to the original design in shape with the addition of a double arm and spacers between them. I love the look of the polished aluminum and have yet to decide if this is the way I will go on the final build. The aluminum is 1/4 inch thick and being this thick it will be plenty stiff for the arm but with that thickness also comes the weight. The volume per arm is 4.63 cubic inches and with aluminum weighing 1.56 ounces per cubic inch comes to 14.44 oz. for both arms not including spacers , and hardware to mount it. Not sure if I want the arm to be that heavy. It's a trade off to be sure.
I've also played around with the idea of building the arms for the steadicam out of carbon fiber. This would be an outsatnding look for the steadicam, be super strong, and very light weight. This all sounded good until I checked out the price for 1/4 inch thick carbon fiber panel bigger enough to make the arms out of. A piece 12 x 18 inches comes to a whopping $175. OUCH! Even if I only go with 1/8 inch thick carbon fiber parts it will still cost way more than I want to spend on this project. So that idea was scrapped early on.
These two images show the same design but using polycarbonate plastic instead of aluminum. This plastic is the same material used in bullet proof windows. It would make the arm a lot lighter than aluminum and much cheaper than carbon fiber. Not as strong as the other two materials of course but still looks great and is stronger than normal plexiglass just in case of an accident where it might get dropped. (Heaven forbid!). I have the polycarbonate arms already cut out on the CNC machine in the workshop but until I get the spacer material I will wait for further photos here as it will be simpler to show and explain the new assembly.
Every thing else on the steadicam is the same as my original design and should only take a couple of hours to assemble. A big plus compared to eight hours of fiberglassing, sanding, and painting.
I'll post more photos of this build once the last of the parts for the steadicam show up in the mail and I get the spacers machined in the workshop. Until then I will be out on my motorcycle enjoying the warm spring weather cruising down some favorite back roads and planning a big motorcycle trip for the summer.
Monday, April 16, 2012
My newest beam bot
After a while of not finding any gear boxes for Synapse, I decided to build a micro sized beam not. Don't worry I have not given up on synapse thigh. Anyways, the beam bot was powered by a simple solar engine, it had small legs, one big capacitor (big if you compare to the bots size), and a small pager motor. I took a video of it so you guys could see it. Thanks for reading a new robot post will be up tomorrow!
Thursday, April 12, 2012
Festo Robot Bird attacks Women
I guess Isaac Asimov was right after all! In this video I found on YouTube it shows a Festo bird (did a post on these guys a while back) that flew down and hot a VIP in the crowd. Who knows, that story may actually become a reality. What are your opinions?
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
DARPA robot conquers stairs
I know a robot walking up stairs doesn't sound that amazing. Well, at least for Honda. After a ton of research and development, one of DARPA's bipedal robots can now walk up stairs. Although the legs just look like black pieces of metal, the inside is filled with motors and others mechanical devises. All these parts work together to give this robot the ability to walk. You could actually call it jogging if you compare this bot to other bipeds. The video above shows it walking up stairs and doing push ups. Thanks for reading and feel free to comment below!
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
New robotic manta ray takes a swim
Swimming robots that mimic fish, jelly fish, and even sharks are amazing, however, there's a new aquatic bot to join the club. Developed by BIER Labs, the robotic manta ray looks and swims like the real animal. It's movements are precise, and it's wave like motion is the real McCoy. In fact, the only thing that gives it away is the material that covers all the working gizmos on the inside. Thanks for reading and I am currently watching out for more information to update you guys on this robot.
Monday, April 9, 2012
Check out smart sand, the tiniest modular robot
Wouldn't it be awesome if you could stick a small item into some sand and then outcomes a larger copy of that item. Well if so, then thank the people at MIT for developed this kind of modular robot. They call it, "smart sand," for obvious reasons. For example, each cube is capable of combining with other cubes via magnets and tiny signals to create a perimeter copy of the object. The magnets help them stick and the signals help them find each other. When that is completed, they then surround the perimeter and fill it in with more blocks. As a result, the object's clone is born. Thanks for reading and for further facts and info, please check out the video above!
Saturday, April 7, 2012
The Indian Motorcycle Light Display Is Completed!
With the help of my friend Steve Hamer at the QC Co-Lab maker space today we completed the assembly of the Indian motorcycle light display that I have been working on. But first the light base assembly had to be cut out on the CNC machine this week in the workshop.
This photo is of the 1/4 inch thick poplar top and bottom pieces (right side of photo) and the 1/2 inch thick poplar mid-sections (left side of photo). I chose poplar simply because of the light displays that I had made for my sisters last Christmas. A nice wood to work with and I simply like the look of it once it has been varnished.
The bottom piece and the two mid-section pieces are glued, stacked together and then clamped. This will make the cavity needed for the electronics to light the display.
Once the glued assembly has dried the bottom piece is added to the assembly using wood screws that have been counter sunk.
Here the assembly has been sanded by hand and with the help of a drum sander on my drill press. Next five coats of varnish will be added to put a good finish on the base.
This photos is a good daylight shot of the display showing the detail in the engraving and how the light box looks after it has been varnished. I like the light color of the poplar wood. Nice and bright. Next the internal electronics, light, and power switch are added. The power cord and on off switch are mounted through the back of the wood base to make for a cleaner look once everything is in place.
This is a reprint of the photo of the internal electronics for the Angel display that I built last Christmas but it is exactly what is now in the Indian motorcycle display. I simply did not get a photo of this view while working on the Indian display today. The only thing missing in this shot is the power cord that comes into the cavity alongside of power switch.
These last two shots give you a good idea of what the display looks like in a couple of different lighting conditions. The top light is with room lights on and of course the bottom photo is of the display on in the dark. Makes a great night light! Either on or off the Indian motorcycle is a great display and will make a nice addition to almost any room in my house.
Friday, April 6, 2012
Easter robot video roundup
This week has been filled with some interesting Easter robots. As a result, I have compiled a roundup dedicated to those robots. I hope you enjoy!
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Thursday, April 5, 2012
National Robotics Week countdown
National Robotics Week officially starts this Saturday! With events in all 50 states. There's an event for every robot fanatic.
Wednesday, April 4, 2012
lockergnome - home robots are here
Today, while checking my subscriptions on youtube I noticed that one of lockergnome's videos wasn't about a new phone or something of that topic. It was about domestic robots. You know, the ones like roomba and mint. Anyways, enjoy the video!
Tuesday, April 3, 2012
The hexbug nano bunny, An Easter styled robot
What do you get when you combine Easter and a hexbug nano? An Easter styled hexbug nano! Unlike the average nano, these have tiny bunny ears that you can attach to the front of the bot. They have different colors, and they're even packaged inside a plastic Easter egg. Sounds like a great gift to add to your kid's Easter basket. Thanks for reading and you can pick some up at RadioShack for just $4.99!
Monday, April 2, 2012
CNC Engraved 1912 Indian Motorcycle On Acrylic Plastic
Here is another project that has been on my mind and the back burner for some time now and it finally came together for me today in the workshop. This engraving is of a drawing that I had done a couple of years ago. As usual having other projects ahead of it I let it sit on my to do list way to long. That all changed today.
The engraving is of a 1912 Indian eight valve board track racer. I always liked the drawing I had done and am now the proud owner of this latest effort. The engraving is on 1/4 thick acrylic and is 6 x 10 inches in size. The tab on the bottom of the engraving is there to allow the acrylic to be mounted into a box with a matching slot to receive it so that light will shine through the acrylic just as you see it here. It will make a nice addition to my computer desk don't you think? One more thing to scratch off my workshop to do list and put another big smile on my face.
The engraving is of a 1912 Indian eight valve board track racer. I always liked the drawing I had done and am now the proud owner of this latest effort. The engraving is on 1/4 thick acrylic and is 6 x 10 inches in size. The tab on the bottom of the engraving is there to allow the acrylic to be mounted into a box with a matching slot to receive it so that light will shine through the acrylic just as you see it here. It will make a nice addition to my computer desk don't you think? One more thing to scratch off my workshop to do list and put another big smile on my face.
micro bot roundup
So far I have not seen anything major in robotics technology, so I just made a roundup post instead of writing about a new robot. Some of the robots listed are beam and some are not. Enjoy!
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Sunday, April 1, 2012
NCSim.... A Free CNC 3 Axis Simulator You Can Download!
Push the YouTube button to view the video larger.
Solsylva CNC Machine Improvement Drawings
I was doing some clean-up on my computer this morning and came across some drawings I had put together of the improvements that I had made to the Solylva CNC machine that is in the shop and that I have been working on at the QC Co-Lab maker space in Davenport Iowa. These modifications that I had made to the machine allow for a usable "T" slot table and a stand for the machine that is simpler to construct. Here are the detailed drawings of the individual parts and assemblies for anyone that would like them.
If you have not seen the videos that I have shot of the Solylva CNC machine build in Davenport please check them out in earlier posts on this blog. It will show you these parts being built and how the assemblies are put together. Lots of good info if you are interested in these modifications or just how to put a Solylva CNC machine together. I hope you will consider using the designs in your build of a Solsylva CNC machine. I know I will update the CNC in my shop with these mods once the weather here in the Midwest gives me a good stretch of weather to do painting outside. Enjoy the drawings.
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